摘要从衬衫面料的市场与发展趋势来看,不论在原料还是上机工艺设计与成品工艺设计上都存在着一定的缺陷。为了解决这一问题,本文就是根据衬衫面料的市场分析与发展趋势,结合2012春夏的流行趋势,进而对衬衫面料组织并结合色彩进行设计和开发,并根据设计工艺在小样织机上试织。文中详细的阐述了面料开发的全过程,包括流行面料风格的分析,原料的选择,上机工艺参数的计算,以及织物服用性能测试及分析。本设计的重点是原料的选择,织物组织的设计与色彩的搭配,从这三个着重点出发,设计了三个主题的产品。分别是采用涤/粘,涤/麻和涤/天丝混纺竹节纱作为原料,同时采用变换织物组织、色纱排列、不同织物紧度和不同工艺设计出“春光明媚”,“天真梦幻”和“自然清新”三种风格的春夏女式衬衫织物。结果表明这两种风格的织物不仅满足了现代女性要求的布面整齐,手感柔软、光滑,且具有“轻”、“薄”、“挺”、“爽“的效果,还将织物的立体感和唯美的效果展现得淋漓尽致。本论文对衬衫面料的研究与开发具有一定的参考价值。关键词:衬衫面料,产品设计,织造,性能测试ABSTRACTLookingfromthemarketandthedevelopmentofshirtfabrictrend,whetherinthematerialsorthecomputertechnologydesignandfinishedproductdesignprocessithassomeshortcomings.Inordertosolvethisproblem,thispaperisbasedonthemarketanalysisandshirtfabricdevelopmenttendency.Combinedwith2012springandsummer’spopulartrend,thendesignanddeveloptheshirtcombinedwithcoloronfabricorganization,andtrytoweaveintheweavingloomaccordingtothedesignprocess.Thispaperexpoundsthedevelopmentofthewholeprocessoffabric,including:popularfabricstyleanalysis,theselectionofrawmaterial,computertechnologyparameters,andtakingtheperformancetestandanalysisoffabric.Thisdesignisthefocusofthechoiceofrawmaterials,thefabricoftheorganizationdesignandcolorcollocation,fromthethreefocusofthedesignofthethreetopicsproducts.Werethepolyester/sticky,polyester/linenandpolyester/daysilkblendedslubbyyarnasrawmaterials,andthetransformationoffabricorganization,coloredyarnarrangement,differentdegreeofthefabricanddifferentprocessdesign"beautifulspringscenery","naivedream"and"naturalandpureandfresh"threekindsofstyleofspringandsummerwomen'sshirtfabric.Theresultsshowthatthethreekindsofstyleoffabrictonotonlysatisfytherequirementsofthemodernwomenclothneatly,feelsoft,smooth,andhasa"light","thin","pretty","great"effect,willalsofabricoftheeffectofstereofeelingandbeautifulincisivelyandvividly.Thispapertoshirtfabricresearchanddevelopmentalsohasthecertainreferencevalue.Keywords:shirtfabric,productdesign,springandsummer,performancetest目录前言.............................................................1第1章衬衫面料的市场分析与发展趋势...............................31.1国内外衬衫面料的发展趋势..................................31.1.1国内衬衫面料的发展趋势...............................31.1.2国外衬衫面料的发展趋势................................31.22012/13春夏面料流行趋势与风格.............................31.3国内衬衫面料开发的现状与前景展望..........................31.4本论文研究的内容..........................................3第2章衬衫织物设计与小样上机织造................................32.1织物设计方案..............................................32.1.1织物主题设计.........................................32.1.2织物规格设计.........................................32.2织物工艺参数计算..........................................32.3织物下机分析..............................................3第3章织物服用性能测试与分析.....................................33.1织物透...